While 3-tab shingles might last 20 years, we focus on Architectural/Laminate shingles. With our CertainTeed Integrity Roof System™, you can expect 50 years of performance. Lifespan depends heavily on attic ventilation and geographic weather patterns, but our systems are built to outlast the competition.
Most standard warranties are prorated, meaning they lose value every year. SureStart™ PLUS provides 100% coverage for the "non-prorated" period of 50 years. This includes not just the shingles, but the labor to replace them, the tear-off costs, and even the disposal fees—costs that most other warranties leave for the homeowner to pay.
No. One of the best things about ridge vents is that they are "naked to the eye." They are installed at the peak of your roof and covered with color-matched cap shingles. They provide better airflow than bulky "turtle" vents or noisy power fans while remaining virtually invisible to anyone looking at your home’s profile.
This is CertainTeed’s approach to a complete roof. It’s not just shingles; it’s a coordinated system involving the starter shingles, underlayment, hip and ridge caps, and ventilation. When all these components come from one manufacturer, they are guaranteed to work together, and your warranty is significantly stronger.
We always recommend a full tear-off. While "roof-overs" save a little money upfront, they trap heat, shorten the life of the new shingles, and prevent us from inspecting the wooden decking for rot or mold. Plus, most premium warranties are voided if the roof is installed over an old layer.
Old-school "felt paper" is made of recycled paper and asphalt. It tears easily and absorbs water. We use high-performance synthetic underlayment. It’s a woven polymer that is virtually un-tearable, provides a much safer walking surface for our crew, and acts as a secondary waterproof barrier for your home.
This is a self-adhering waterproof membrane that we install in critical areas like eaves, valleys, and around chimneys. It creates a watertight seal that prevents water from backing up under shingles due to ice damming or wind-driven rain—common culprits for leaks in residential homes.
Our team is mindful when tearing off old roofs to ensure no debris falls on surrounding landscaping. We also work with our clients to ensure anything that can be moved away from the roofline is, this includes patio furniture and bbqs.
Most residential shingle roofs are completed in 1 to 2 days. Day one is usually the tear-off and deck assessments. Day two is for the shingle installation and detailing. We don’t hop between jobs; once we start your roof, we stay until it’s done.
We perform multiple "sweeps" with high-powered industrial magnets. We go over your grass, driveway, and sidewalks at least three times. We also check your gutters and downspouts to ensure no debris was left behind that could cause a clog later.
Oftentimes yes. By installing a "Cool Roof" shingle and upgrading your attic ventilation to a ridge vent system (when possible), we allow hot air to escape the attic. This lowers the temperature of your ceiling, meaning your AC doesn't have to work nearly as hard during the summer months.
If we find soft spots or rot in the plywood decking after the tear-off, we stop and show you. We replace the damaged sheets with new, CDX-grade plywood to ensure the shingles have a solid foundation to nail into. We never roof over rot.
Flashing is the metal (usually aluminum or copper) installed wherever the roof meets a wall, chimney, or valley. These are the most vulnerable spots on a roof. We use custom-bent flashing to ensure water is channeled safely away from the wood and into the gutters.
If you are doing a partial repair, we try our best, but asphalt fades over time due to UV exposure. If you are doing a full replacement, we provide "color boards" and digital tools to see sample color options.
Some contractors just turn a regular shingle upside down for the first row. We use dedicated starter shingles with an aggressive adhesive strip. This prevents the first row of shingles from being lifted by the wind, which is how many roof failures begin.
The shingles used on the peaks of your roof are different from the ones on the flat sections. These "cap" shingles are thicker and pre-bent to fit the angle of the roof. They provide a high-profile, finished look and extra protection where wind hit the hardest.
Most likely yes, in almost all jurisdictions. We handle the entire permitting process, from filing the paperwork to scheduling the final inspection with the city or county. This ensures your roof is "up to code" and won't cause issues if you ever decide to sell your home.
This isn't just a sticker for our truck; it’s a credential earned by only the top 1% of contractors. It requires our team to pass the Shingle Quality Specialist and Master Shingle Applicator exams. For you, it means we’ve proven our knowledge in complex roof systems and are authorized to offer CertainTeed’s industry-leading "SureStart Plus" warranties.
If your shingles are still flexible and the granules are intact, a repair is often sufficient. However, if the shingles are brittle and "snap" when we try to lift them for a repair, it's a sign that the entire system has reached its limit and needs replacement.
Most blow-offs are caused by "high-nailing" (placing nails too high on the shingle) or a lack of adhesive bonding. As a ShingleMaster™ Pro, we ensure repairs are nailed in the "sweet spot" so they stay put even in 110+ mph winds.
The rubber seal around plumbing vents eventually cracks. We don't just put caulk on it (which lasts a month). We remove the old boot, install a new one, and properly weave the surrounding shingles back into the system for a permanent fix.
When a nail isn't driven straight or the wood expands/contracts, the nail can "pop" up. This creates a hole in the shingle above it. We pull the nail, seal the hole with roofing cement, and drive a new nail into a fresh spot in the wood.
A few granules are normal on a new roof. However, if you see piles of them, your shingles are losing their UV protection. This makes them brittle and prone to cracking. We can inspect to see if the loss is "end-of-life" or due to recent hail damage.
Yes. Chimney leaks are usually caused by failing mortar or rusted flashing. We specialize in "re-flashing" chimneys, which involves cutting a small groove into the brick and tucking new custom-made metal inside to create a "counter-flashing" seal.
Yes. If you have an active leak during a storm, we can provide a temporary tarping service to mitigate further damage to your ceiling and floors until the weather clears enough for a permanent repair.
Blisters look like small bubbles on the shingles. They happen when moisture is trapped in the shingle during manufacturing or when the attic is poorly ventilated. We can assess if these are cosmetic or if they have popped and created a leak risk.
This is used where the roof meets a side wall. We install individual L-shaped pieces of metal for every single shingle. This "steps" the water down the roofline. Many cheap repairs fail because the contractor tried to use one long piece of metal, which eventually leaks.
Absolutely. While a manufacturer’s warranty won't cover a patch, we provide our own workmanship warranty on all repairs. If the same spot leaks again, we come back and fix it at no cost to you for up to 2 years.
Tile is a "watershedding" system, not a "waterproof" one. The real protection is the underlayment. If your underlayment is 20+ years old, it has likely become brittle and cracked. Water gets under the tiles naturally and finds those cracks.
We avoid walking on tiles whenever possible to prevent breakage. If we must, we use "soft-step" techniques and walk on the lower third of the tile where it overlaps the one below. We recommend homeowners stay off the roof entirely.
If your tiles are in great shape but the paper underneath is failing, we can "Lift and Reset." We carefully remove your existing tiles, replace the underlayment with high-quality synthetic or felt, and then reinstall your original tiles to save you thousands.
We have a network of tile "boneyards" that stock discontinued styles. We match the profile (S-Tile, Flat, or W-Tile) and the material (clay or concrete) as best we can to ensure the repair doesn't look like an eyesore.
Debris like leaves and pine needles get trapped under the tiles in the metal valleys. This creates a dam that forces water sideways, over the edge of the metal and onto your wood. Regular "valley cleaning" is a key part of tile roof maintenance.
For minor chips, we can use a specialized roof tile adhesive. However, if a tile is cracked through, it must be replaced. A glued tile will eventually fail due to the constant expansion and contraction from the sun.
It’s a white, chalky film that sometimes appears on concrete tiles. It’s a natural process where lime in the concrete reacts with water. It doesn't affect the strength of the tile and usually washes away over time.
The mortar used to "bed" the ridge tiles eventually cracks due to house settling and weather. We offer "re-pointing" services where we remove the old mortar and apply fresh, fiber-reinforced mortar to seal the peak of your roof.
We recommend doing so once every 2 years. Because you can’t see the "real" roof (the underlayment), a pro needs to check the valleys, flashings, and bird stops to catch small issues before they become $10,000 leaks.
Unlike the DIY gutters you find at big-box stores, seamless gutters are made from a flat coil of aluminum that we run through a machine on the back of our truck. We "roll-form" them to the exact length of your house, meaning there are no joints to leak over time.
We offer a palette of over 20 baked-on enamel colors. Most homeowners match the gutters to the "trim" color of the house (the fascia) so they blend in, but you can also choose a color that matches the siding or even the roof.
If you have trees within 50 feet of your home, guards are a great investment. We use stainless steel micro-mesh guards. They keep out everything—from large leaves to tiny pine needles and "helicopters"—while still allowing water to drop through.
Yes. This usually happens because the old "spike and ferrule" system has loosened. We replace those with heavy-duty "hidden hangers" that screw directly into the rafter tails, pulling the gutter tight against the fascia again.
Drip edge is a metal "L" that tucks under the shingles and over the back of the gutter. Without it, water can "wick" back behind the gutter, rotting your wooden fascia board and even leaking into your soffits.
Gutters must be slightly angled toward the downspouts (about 1/4 inch for every 10 feet). We use levels and string lines to ensure there is no "standing water," which can attract mosquitoes and add heavy weight to the system.
A general rule is one downspout for every 30 to 40 feet of gutter. If your roof has a large "valley" that dumps a lot of water into one spot, we might add an extra downspout or use a larger 3x4-inch "oversized" downspout to handle the volume.
Yes. Gutter corners (miters) are the most common leak spots. We clean out the old, dried-out caulk and apply a high-grade tri-polymer sealant that stays flexible in the heat and cold, ensuring a watertight seal for years.
These are the plastic or concrete pads we place at the exit of your downspouts. They prevent the high-velocity water from digging a hole in your lawn or washing away your mulch.
We specialize in the gutter system itself, but we can tie our downspouts into your existing underground drainage tiles or "pop-up" emitters to ensure water is carried far away from your foundation.
This usually means there is a clog in the downspout "elbow" (the curve). Even a small handful of leaves can block the exit, causing the entire gutter to fill up and overflow like a bathtub.
We use heavy-gauge .032 aluminum. It is thick enough to withstand ladders being leaned against it, but because it's aluminum, it will never rust like the steel gutters of the past.
Yes. We use "roof-mount" hangers that attach directly to the roof deck under the shingles. This is common on older homes or certain architectural styles.
For an average-sized home, we can usually remove your old gutters and install a brand-new seamless system in 3 to 5 hours.
In many cases, yes! Most basement leaks are caused by water pooling next to the foundation. By collecting that water and moving it 10 feet away via downspouts, you remove the "hydrostatic pressure" that pushes water through basement walls.
Yes. Copper is the "luxury" option. It develops a beautiful green patina over time and can last for 50 to 100 years. It requires specialized soldering rather than sealants, which we are trained to do.
TPO stands for Thermoplastic Polyolefin. It is a single-ply, white reflective membrane that is heat-welded at the seams. It’s the "gold standard" for modern flat roofs because it is extremely durable, energy-efficient, and creates a monolithic waterproof sheet.
Commercial flat roofs often absorb a massive amount of heat. A white TPO or PVC roof reflects the sun’s UV rays. This can lower the surface temperature of the roof by as much as 50 degrees, significantly reducing your building's cooling costs.
We use "source-tracking." We look for "alligatoring" (cracking), failed seams, or punctures near HVAC units. Once found, we clean the area and heat-weld a new patch of membrane over the hole—a fix that is actually stronger than the original material.
If water sits on a flat roof for more than 48 hours, it’s considered "ponding." This adds thousands of pounds of stress to your building’s structure and can degrade the roofing membrane. We use "tapered insulation" to create a slight slope toward the drains.
Yes, but you should be careful. For commercial roofs with frequent HVAC maintenance, we install "walkway pads"—extra thick, textured strips of membrane that protect the roof from tools and heavy boots.
These are the most common leak points. We use "flashing boots" or "pitch pockets" (a metal box filled with waterproof sealer) to ensure that even as the building shifts, the seal around the pipe remains tight.
Yes! At a minimum, you should have a commercial roof inspected twice a year to clear debris from drains and scuppers. A $500 maintenance visit can prevent a $50,000 premature roof failure.
Most flat roofs are actually flat wood or metal decks. To prevent ponding, we install foam insulation boards that are cut at an angle. This creates a "fake" slope that directs all water toward the drainage points.
If the underlying insulation isn't wet, we can often apply a Silicone Roof Coating. This creates a seamless, rubberized layer over your existing roof, adds a 10-20 year warranty, and costs about half as much as a full tear-off.
Yes. Most TPO and EPDM systems are Class A fire-rated, meaning they provide the highest level of protection against flame spread. This is a critical requirement for most commercial building codes.
It depends on the size. A small retail "strip" might take 3-4 days, while a large warehouse could take weeks. We work in sections to ensure the building is always "dried-in" by the end of each day.
